Sunscreen under fire: Safety questions ignite an ‘anti-sunscreen’ movement

Statistics show that at least one in five Americans will develop skin cancer in their lifetime. I recently became that dreaded one out of five when my doctor came across a small basal cell cancer on my arm during a routine dermatology appointment. A quick in-office procedure took care of it, but the diagnosis surprised me, as I would never have noticed the spot on my own. It looked like nothing, a paler dot maybe, but certainly not cancer. While thankfully it wasn’t melanoma, I suddenly felt like introducing myself to people as Buck Melanoma like John Candy’s character did in “Uncle Buck.”

“Here comes ole melanoma head.”

All joking aside, after the diagnosis, I realized I should use sunscreen more consistently. But then I encountered an interesting survey that found more than 16 million adults, mostly younger people, have reduced or stopped using sunscreen due to social media influencers questioning its safety. The results resonated, as I’ve recently heard people in their 20s and 30s talking about how sunbathing is healthy, and despite the increase in sunscreen use over the past 50 years, skin cancer rates continue to rise, leading them to wonder if sunscreen itself causes cancer.

It’s true that skin cancer rates, particularly melanoma, have risen dramatically over the past several decades. As an example, research has shown invasive melanoma cases among men increased from around two per 100,000 in 1950-1954 to over 33 per 100,000 in recent years.

Although studies have shown no link between sunscreen use and skin cancer, there is some merit to young people’s concerns about its safety.

In 2021, an FDA review found that, of the 16 sunscreen ingredients it analyzed, only zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are generally recognized as safe and effective (GRASE). Health agencies have classified titanium dioxide as a potential carcinogen, but only if it’s inhaled. It does not penetrate the skin, so it poses no risk if applied topically.

In contrast, other ingredients commonly used in sunscreen, such as oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, and avobenzone, absorb into the body and can be detected in the blood for weeks after sunscreen use. Scientists have even found sunscreen ingredients in urine, plasma, and breast milk. These compounds, especially oxybenzone and octinoxate, have been linked to hormone disruption, which can lead to reproductive problems.

Adding fuel to the fire, in 2021, Valisure, a quality assurance company, tested 294 sunscreen products and found that 78 contained benzene, a known carcinogen. Some had benzene levels up to 12 times higher than the FDA’s limit for consumer products. Although the FDA recalled these products, public awareness of the issue likely contributed to the belief that sunscreen causes cancer.

In addition to concerns about ingredient safety, internet chatter about the potential health benefits of sunbathing has also driven the anti-sunscreen trend. For example, some popular social media influencers have argued that getting a “base tan” can be healthy.

Research acknowledges that moderate sunlight exposure provides health benefits such as boosting vitamin D levels. It can also help people with eczema, as ultraviolet (UV) light suppresses overactive immune cells in the skin that contribute to flare-ups. However, it’s a double-edged sword. UV light suppresses the skin’s immune system, which can help eczema, but a suppressed immune system can’t fight UV-related DNA mutations in skin cells, which is how skin cancer forms.

Therefore, getting a base tan is not healthy. Darkening of the skin due to UV exposure is an indication of damage. A tan does not protect you from future sunburn, as it only provides an SPF factor of three or less. Instead of a base tan, experts generally agree that five to 15 minutes of direct sun on arms and legs a few times a week is acceptable. Much more than that, however, and you risk becoming Buck Melanoma’s kissing cousin.

After my basal cell incident, I knew I had to get serious about sunscreen. But I am also concerned about the toxicity of sunscreen ingredients, so my new mission was to find the “safest” option possible. Some self-proclaimed health gurus on TikTok claim you can make a “healthier” version from scratch. However, researchers tested 15 homemade sunscreen recipes found online and discovered that three had zero SPF, and the remaining 12 had an SPF of under six, which is too low to offer any protection.

So, the safest bet is to choose a commercial sunscreen formulated with titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. But that means you will have to read the product labels on dozens of products. To make this process simpler, you could consider using apps like Yuka, Clearya, and EWG Healthy Living, which can scan product barcodes to check for toxic ingredients. These apps provide risk scores, list risky additives, and suggest safer alternatives.

I use Yuka, and on my quest for “safer” sunscreen, I was surprised to find that only one or two products were rated as excellent for having no high-risk ingredients. I couldn’t help but wonder — with millions of young people shying away from sunscreen due to safety concerns, why aren’t there more “non-toxic” options available in stores? Sunscreen manufacturers, for the sake of our young people, do better.

Kimberly Drake is a health journalist whose work appears in The Epoch Times, Healthline, Medical News Today, and GoodRx. She can be reached at [email protected].